Seen by many as one of the most difficult-to-explain dress codes in the history of humankind, the white tie dress code has been confusing dudes for generations and generations. Its roots can be traced back to the end of the 19th century, when aristocrats and members of royalty used to wear it as a symbol of sheer opulence at parties where people have silly nicknames like ‘Bunty.’ Fast forward to today, and it's still around. And yes, white tie dress code is still hard to get right.
In this guide, we'll give you an informative, anxiety-easing walkthrough of precisely what white tie means, the differences between it and black tie, and a look at the quite mad accessories that feel slightly Bridgerton-coded. Whatever the result, you're going to look like a king – and, more importantly, a pro.
What is a white tie event?
The words “white tie” on your invitation will be the most irrefutable sign that it’s a white tie event. Duh! But you may be confused by some other phrases, such as “full evening dress,” “tails,” or “dress suit,” which all pretty much indicate the same thing.
If you thought black tie was formal, you're in for a shock. White tie is the undisputed champion of formality. In a bygone era, it was the standard dress for a big and moneyed event. But in these more liberal, modern times, it's a rarity that's only seen at royal or state ceremonies and balls or banquets. To put it into context, not even the Royal Box at Ascot asks for traditional white tie.
And hold up, but we might've told a little white (dress code) lie. Because there is one further level of formality: “white tie decorations.” It's usually at royal ceremonies or hyper formal events, where your decorations or medals of honour are worn. Unfortunately, your ‘best effort’ medal from your Sports Day won't make the cut.
What to wear to a white tie event
There are so many rules that must be followed when dressing for white tie. First and foremost, the bow tie must be white and should really be hand-tied. If there isn’t enough time for that, then pre-tied is just about acceptable. Just keep it to yourself, yeah?
The jacket must be an evening tailcoat, which differs to a morning tailcoat in its shape, creating a harsher line that cuts back towards the body. It must be worn unbuttoned and lapels should always be peaked. The shirt must be a stiff white evening shirt (pleated or plain) with single folded cuffs and a wing collar. Cufflinks are a necessity (naturally!), and instead of buttons, studs should be worn in mother-of-pearl, or something equally as light.
But wait, there's more! You'll need a low-cut, white evening waistcoat (so the shirt is visible) and the hem shouldn’t stick out from under the jacket. Shifting down below, and your trousers must be high waisted with two lines of braid down the outside. Don't go baggy either. Modern trends rarely work well with something this old school.
With phrases such as “court shoe” and “opera shoe” being thrown around in white tie circles, footwear can be a menace. A surefire way to stay within the rules is to wear a black patent leather shoe with black laces (or a black ribbon, if possible). They should then be complemented by black evening socks (plain black socks are passable too).
The accessories are where you can really become the late 19th-century aristocrat that lurks within your superego. While a top hat is totally optional, you should probably get one anyway, becayse when else are you going to wear one? White gloves are also optional, just resist the temptation to glove slap someone into a duel. Finally, and most bizarrely in the modern age, there is the option of a dress cane. Keep it simple though, you ain’t Huggy Bear.
Can you wear white tie to a black tie event?
The black tie and white tie dress codes are set apart by levels of formality. To have a white tie dress code, the event must be very important or indicate that the calibre of guests are titled, royal, or have high social standing (whatever that means in 2023).
You can wear white tie to a black tie event, since black tie is also known as “evening dress” and white tie falls under this category too. However, you'll probably end up looking far more formal than most people, especially if it's “black tie optional,” so be prepared for that.
What do you wear to a white tie wedding?
For a white tie wedding or a “white wedding,” the dress code is the same as traditional white tie. There is one slight difference: if you want to wear a normal tuxedo jacket as opposed to tails, this would be more acceptable at a white wedding than other formal occasions (unless the people getting married are titled). Our advice? Stick to the agreed white tie dress and it’ll be a nice day.
Clue yourself up further with our break down of every dress code known to man.
